Obviously, the name of the website “ART GOES TO WAR” is somewhat self-explanatory. It is about the aesthetics and timeless beauty of the insignia and uniforms that soldiers wear when they serve whether that be on the parade ground, in the mess or on the battlefield. Each period, scenario and each “theatre” of War has its own specific colors and wardrobe. The apex of this design pyramid is the actual “colors” of the Regiment and ultimately the Flag of country they are fighting for. Everything, down to the colored thread on the buttons, is specified in orders issued by the armed services. In the US, when a soldier dies, his “Gold Star” family is given a folded “Stars and Stripes” as the ultimate honor bestowed from his grateful country.
Dress codes are stipulated in the military “Orders” in the United Kingdom and “Sealed Patterns” in the United States. Here is an example below regarding the evolution of the “Pith” Helmet adopted by the US Army during the late Nineteenth Century. Uniforms are separated into “Dress” and “Undress” versions as well as Battle gear. Dress uniforms in the US are known as “Parade” uniforms. Both the US and the UK have a “Mess Dress” which consists of a waistcoat and high waisted pants worn with a bowtie to be worn at Dinners and Diplomatic events. The colors and styles of the Uniforms have evolved over time, which adds to their fascination. The bright reds and Blue of the UK and US Army Uniforms were supplanted in the First World War with more practical and safer khaki versions. The Navy tends to remain “Navy” and the Air Force keeps its version of sky-blue but all services tend to default to khaki for day to day and battle conditions. All services also have a “Tropical” version for duty in hot climates, which is usually a light tan soft cotton jacket with pants or shorts and no shirt. “Camouflages” are an entirely different motif. Here is some history regarding Khaki and Camouflage. The word camouflage comes from the French slang verb camoufler, meaning "to disguise" or "to blind/trick by blowing smoke in someone's face". The word "khaki" comes from the Hindustani and Urdu word khākī, which means "dust-colored" or "soil-colored."
Early Drab and Khaki Uniforms (19th Century)
- 1848: The British Army Corps of Guides in India first dyed their uniforms using river mud to create a dust-colored tone known as khaki for better concealment.
- Mid-18th to 19th Century: Specialized rifle units occasionally wore green or drab outfits, but major armies continued using bright, visible colors until lessons from colonial conflicts like the Boer Wars forced a change.
- 1902: The British Army officially adopted khaki as the standard service uniform color for all overseas troops, prompting other global powers to shift away from bright scarlet and blue.
Patterned Camouflage Uniforms (20th Century)
- 1915: France established the first official military camouflage unit during World War I utilizing artists to design disruptive patterns for equipment and positions.
- 1929: Italy introduced the M1929 Mimetico, which is recognized as the first mass-produced, printed multi-color patterned camouflage for general military issue.
- 1942: Widespread use of patterned jungle camouflage (like the U.S. "frogskin" uniform) began during World War II in the Pacific Theater.
“Art Goes to War” or AGW for short, is also meant to be intentionally ambiguous, implying not only the literal aesthetics of the paraphernalia and accoutrements of War but also implying rebellious and in-your-face attitude to the entire theme but also allowing other images of a non-military character to be included on the AGW web site such as the iconic "Brasso" wadding cans, which incidentally was the standard polishing material for all the brass uniform buttons and badges, and the insouciant Morton Salt Girl, tripping home under her giant Umbrella. Even portraits are given the same rebellious attitude and tone.
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When the Quartermaster Department officially approved the final design for the sun/pith helmets used during the later years of the U.S. Indian Wars, a benchmark sample was literally sealed—often with wax and ribbon—to serve as the strict manufacturing standard for contractors.
The Evolution of the "Pith" Helmet Sealed Patterns
Though colloquially called "pith helmets," these American summer helmets were actually constructed from laminated cork covered in fabric. The U.S. Army finalized three distinct sealed patterns during the Indian Wars era:
- The Model 1880 (M1880) Sealed Pattern: Approved in May 1880, this first official design featured a shell of two-ply laminated cork cemented with shellac. It had shallow visors, a short rear nape, and a khaki/tan or white-washed drill cloth covering. They were rushed out to frontier troops stationed in searing-hot southwestern posts like Texas and Arizona.
- The Model 1887 (M1887) Sealed Pattern: Introduced to correct structural complaints about the M1880, this version standardly featured a higher pitch and bleached white cotton drilling fabric.
- The Model 1889 (M1889) Sealed Pattern: The final evolution of the Indian Wars period, which returned to a tan/khaki cloth cover to hide dirt better on campaign.
The Two Versions of the Sealed Pattern
Depending on how the unit commander designated the uniform of the day, the same basic cork helmet base changed roles:
- The Field Uniform Version: Fitted with a simple, standard white or tan screw-on ventilator cap at the top to let heat escape.
- The Summer Dress Uniform Version: The ventilator cap was unscrewed and replaced with a gilded brass spike (for Infantry) or colored horsehair plumes (for Cavalry/Artillery), transforming it into formal dress attire.>>
In British armed services history, dress refers to elaborate or formal ceremonial attire, while undress refers to the simpler, practical working or daily barracks uniform derived from it
Key Uniform Categories
- Full Dress: The most elaborate historical uniform featuring bright colors (like scarlet red jackets for the Foot Guards). It is now largely restricted to ceremonial guards, state occasions, and military bands.
- No. 1 Dress: A formal temperate ceremonial uniform usually consisting of a dark/midnight blue tunic and trousers. Historically evolved from officers' traditional "undress" barracks wear.
- No. 2 Dress (Service Dress): The standard khaki or regimental-colored service uniform used for non-ceremonial parades, everyday office work, and garrison duty.
- Mess Dress: Semi-formal evening wear used by officers and senior non-commissioned officers for formal dinners and messes, equivalent to civilian black tie.
The Meaning of "Undress"
- Historical Undress: In the 18th and 19th centuries, "undress" did not mean being out of uniform. It meant stripping away heavy accessories—such as epaulettes, elaborate ceremonial headgear, or swords—leaving a plain, comfortable coat for day-to-day camp or garrison duties.
- Evolution into Service Dress: Over time, these practical daily "undress" variations replaced flashy full-dress uniforms as active-service and everyday working outfits, eventually evolving into modern Service Dress and combat fatigues.

This is the distinctive Glangarry Garrison or Side Cap worn by the Scottish regiments. It has a red pom-pom or toorie on the top. The Cap badge is set against a black brocade with black ribbons flying from the back. There is often a hackle or feathers which are positioned behind and above the cap badge. The tartan band is of red white and blue-black squares characteristic of the Royal Scottish Regiments. This is an unusual example of a parade cap.
Medal ribbons and medals are the ultimate eye-catcher and are worn on the left chest, like a Roman Salute. Here are a selection of some of the most iconic ribbons of World War Two. This medal ribbon image is available on the Shopify Store as are photographs of the Glengarry Side-Cap. The Embroidered Red Visor Cap with the "ART GOES TO WAR" slogan on the front, can be ordered in different styles and colors also through the Store.
